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Treasures from the Pulsing Sea
excerpt from Cooking for the Love of the World
by Anne-Marie Fryer Wiboltt
Image by Kristin Hoel

Most of Earth's surface is bathed in salty, mineral-rich ocean water. The coastline where sunlight is able to penetrate the water provides the richest area for plant growth in temperate climates. There the "grasses of the sea," also called sea vegetables, grow in abundance. These plants are ancient and relatively simple. They produce no seeds, fruits, or flowers. Their fronds are undifferentiated plants, held and supported by the buoyancy of the ocean water.

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On land the buoyancy of invisible cosmic forces, which create the upward-striving and outspreading gestures of each plant, undeniably hold the land vegetables upright. Sea vegetables, by contrast, are more influenced by the forces of the earth than is the plant growing in the field. They collapse without the buoyancy and support of the life-sustaining ocean water.

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The constantly changing, moving ocean and the rhythmical daily rise and fall of the sea level dominate the life of all ocean plants. They live in and as the pulsing rhythm of the mineral-rich water. Wave after wave, tide after tide toss these ocean plants to and fro. In this demanding environment these sea vegetables develop tremendous strength, flexibility, persistence, and adaptability. No wonder many cultures included small amounts of sea vegetables in their diet to gain these qualities themselves.

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Most sea vegetables live attached and anchored to solid rocks. Sea vegetables are not the easiest to harvest. They grow in wet, slippery places. The fronds have to be foraged when the tide is low, often on a cold spring or autumn morning.

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When my husband and I lived in the northern part of Norway, we had the most incredible experiences harvesting sea vegetables. Dressed very warm in waders, wee walked out into the receding tide and reverently collected these small ocean treasures. As crabs scurried to find a hiding place for a few hours during the ebb tide, we reached out to cut the sea vegetables from the rocks. Standing with these ocean plants in our hands we could feel the powers of the majestic ocean.

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Strongly influenced by the moon, the ocean seemed to have concentrated its life forces into these little simple plants. Almost all minerals and fibers, they were so powerfully attached to their environment it was impossible to separate them from the rocks without a sharp knife. Right there we understood the reasons the northern coastal societies valued this handy strengthening food so much.


Explore

Buy a package of wakame or alaria sea vegetable. Soak some of it in a bowl of water. After a few minutes unfold the fronds and observe how the plant moves beautifully and gracefully with the water. Notice how the plant collapses when you pull it out of the water.


ARAME SEA VEGETABLES WITH ORANGE RIND

Arame is a broad-leaf sea vegetable. The store-bought variety has been precooked, shredded thin, and dried. It brings a wonderful dark centering color to the meal that makes all other dishes shine brighter. The method used to cook the arame in water sauteing, without oil, combining the long-time slow-cooking technique.

1 cup dry arame, packed tightly
2 cups water
1 onion, cut in crescent moons
1 tablespoon tamari soy sauce
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 orange, plus 1 extra slice for garnish

 

Soak arame in water for 10-20 minutes.

Heat saucepan and sauté the onions in 1 tablespoon water.

Lift the arame out of the water with your hands and transfer on top of the onions. Any dirt will settle to the bottom. Pour the soaking water over the arame, discarding the last 4-5 tablespoons.

Bring arame and onions to a boil, and simmer covered until tender--about 20 minutes.

Drain the remaining liquid off. Season the arame with tamari and maple syrup.

Grate the orange rind and press the juice out of the orange. Add both to the arame and serve.

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